TRAILING THE TATTOOED RAMNAMIS
In the footsteps of the most devout
Highlights: Meeting the tattooed sect of Chhattisgarh | Rural Life
No. of Days: 4
Overview: Cultural immersion in Chhattisgarh is one of the most coveted experiences. While natural beauty and staggering landscapes always have the potential to make the jaws drop, it is the people the land that make the trip interesting. Of all the people that one encounters in the state, the Ramnamis are most intriguing. Humans have long used their bodies as veritable canvases for thousands of years, in numerous parts of the world. Here, the Ramnamis use them as an ode to Lord Ram, tattooing the words ‘ram ram’ in Hindi on their bodies – some of them, on each and every part. Meet this interesting sect in the eastern part of the state, around Bilaigarh and Bilaspur.
The most interesting time to visit this region is during the annual festival of the Ramnamis, where you can see tattoos being taken to a superlative level. What started as a message to the upper caste strata, that Lord Rama was for everyone, after the untouchable community was not allowed to enter temples, grew into a full-blown spiritual sect in the state. In the 1970’s the population of the Ramnamis has grown to thousands, but now very few are left in the state. In fact, full body tattooed Ramnamis are as few as 4-5, but many of them have tattoos only their foreheads, legs and arms. They have great camaraderie between each other and meet regularly at kirtans to sing devotional songs and greet each other.
What To Expect: The Ramnamis are a shy sect and do not take to tourism immediately. They are used to being photographed by a few people. In this trip, allow yourself to get a peek into their lives with more than just tattoos as focus. See life in the countryside and visit homes, where some seniors may have tattoos. Later, visit the congregation – each year is a different village – where many Ramnamis converge. Over the years, full body tattoos have declined. It is said that only 1000 plus Ramnamis are left, that too with only 4-5, who are nakshikhs (ones with full body tattoos). They can be distinguished in a gathering with a headgear made of peacock feathers and an odhni (shawl) with ‘ramram’ printed all over.
